Toru & Naoko Juana Wrap Bra + Sharon High-Waisted Knickers in XL from Bluestockings Boutique

For this review, I'm going to reviewing multiple facets of my purchase--The lingerie itself by Chile-based designer Toru & Naoko and the shop I purchased it from, Bluestockings Boutique.

Let's start with a quick look at Toru & Naoko. From their website:

"Toru & Naoko is a handmade lingerie label founded by argentinean designer Camila Leguizamón, now based in santiago, Chile. We produce high quality garments designed and sewn from our small studio."

I personally have been intrigued by trying out independent designers for a while. It seems that most lingerie bloggers tend to wade out into the world of indie lingerie for various reasons, whether it be an interest in new and fresh designs and/or to support ethically made products. Personally I was struck by the innovative design of T&N's work and the delight of owning something a bit more boutique and special.

Juana Wrap Bra and Sharon High-Waisted Knickers XS-XXL + Custom Sizing

Yet there are always risks when buying indie lingerie, many of them being practical concerns. For one, most are not widely reviewed in the same way that massive brands are (with the hundreds of bratabase entries, to match). They are typically more expensive and take several weeks to make-to-order, along with being non-returnable, which raises the stakes immensely. I am a woefully impatient person, and was delighted when I discovered that retailer Bluestockings Boutique could alleviate many of my concerns.

Bluestockings Boutique's motto is "Underthings for Everyone". The boutique was created when "...queer-identified founder Jeanna Kadlec realized there was no lingerie boutique in the United States geared to the LGBTQIA+ community. "

I don't really talk much about my life outside of lingerie on this blog, as it often doesn't seem relevant. Maybe you noticed me quietly changed my bio to include the descriptor "queer" a little while ago (which I have identified with for a long time). Lingerie and lingerie blogging is certainly wrapped up in my enjoyment and passion for body- and sex-positivity,  feminism, and queerness. So when I discovered Bluestockings Boutique I was thrilled to see what Kadlec had created--a space for people of all genders and sizes to see themselves reflected with a commitment to ethical and sustainable brands and designers.

When buying from Bluestockings, I was able to avoid many of the issues I had previously worried about when buying indie lingerie. They were in stock in the USA, so I didn't have to wait for the items to be made and deal with international shipping. I could return the bra within 14 days of purchase (the underwear was not returnable--reasonable in my opinion). I was able to shoot a quick question to @bluestockingbo on twitter about sizing. Basically, it was an all-around easy-breezy shopping experience.

In addition, Bluestockings offers the service Affirm as a way to be more accessible to people who cannot drop a huge chunk of change all at once. It is basically a small loan you can take out and pay off, so essentially a form of layaway payments in-practice. I decided to use Affirm to buy this set, mostly out of curiosity and my aforementioned impatience. It went smoothly, and because I paid it off quickly, I ran into no problems. I will say that there is some controversy around using loans as a way to pay for products. I would never try to tell someone how to use their money, (especially given I used the service myself), I just think considering all the options is best. I could see Affirm being extra useful when you need something very last minute and are able to pay it off readily afterwards.

On to the review!

Looks:
I was immediately drawn to Juana and Sharon for the unique art deco-inspired design. It's strappy without being immediately visually linked to fetish-wear (not a bad thing in and of itself, just rare it seems with strappy lingerie), and is made with a delicate sheer-pink stretch fabric and a sharp black trim. It's delightfully feminine while relying on a more constructed, graphic look. I love the way the design plays with the sheer overlapping panels. The silver hardware is included on the adjustable straps (both on the bra and the briefs), which make the sliders seem integrated with the design and not just an afterthought for utility. Possibly my favorite part is the large cut-out section on the side of the briefs, which I think is an underutilized area to bare skin. The sewing and craftsmanship is impeccable.

Fit:
After a brief twitter consult with Bluestockings, I bought bought pieces in XL. I think this was a good call, though as you can see with the bra the band was too large and riding up--which is common for me in non-bra-sized pieces, since I need space for the bust. As with most soft bralette-type items, I was not expecting much support. In truth, these types of items are more like attractive wrapping for my breasts rather than anything that might give any lift. That said, there was more than enough coverage to nicely encompass my breasts, and I think people with larger breasts than me could easily wear this bra if they're okay with slightly less coverage. My main gripe with Juana, and why I did end up returning it in the end, was that the lower part which wraps so beautifully flat around the model curled and bunched up on me. I do not think this is a design flaw so much as the way that my body moves--it creases and folds, therefore this type of design is just not feasible. I tried very hard to keep it flat in the photos to no avail.

I decided to return Juana with hopes that I could get my hands on their Janice bra someday, which I think will be a better fit for me based on my positive experience with my Asos Anya bralette.

Janice by T&N

The briefs are amazing though, which is why I was perfectly happy to keep them in my collection. My only complaint about them, which extends to the bra as well, is that the fabric seems to pull and wrinkle in a few places of tension. Normal, yes, but it does detract from the flat graphic appearance. The center panel near my butt crack (for lack of a better term...) also bunched up a bit, which isn't the most attractive sight, though one I'm willing to live with. It might just be a quirk of the design.

Comfort:
The fabric for these items is a very fine pink mesh, which is quite soft and comfortable. The briefs include a cotton gusset which is always appreciated (it's healthy for your bits!). Given the entire set lacks wires and is fairly minimal, I have few complaints. I will add that putting the bra on for the first time was a bit of a struggle, since the wrapping band completely unravels when you take it off. I found it easiest to put one arm through and proceed to wrap the set around myself as it was a bit confusing otherwise, haha.

Whew! That was a lot of info, but I had a lot to talk about this time around! Hope the review is helpful and I also hope to be reviewing more indie designers in the future :) If you would like a different perspective on this set, The Petite Collegiate did a review of it just this past week.

Review: Cleo Marcie 34G & Briefs in Bluebell

This set was generously provided by Panache for review. As always, all opinions are unbiased and my own and this post was not sponsored. 

28-38 D-J

Marcie is one of Cleo's most popular bras, and yet I haven't had the chance to own a set until recently. I have always enjoyed the super uplifted, rounded look that many Cleo bras provide, and when I saw the new 'bluebell' colorway for Marcie I had to have it. I have a soft spot for pastels, specifically this breezy periwinkle and coral combination.

   

Looks:
I have already mentioned my love of the color, but one thing that surprised me is how delightfully neon the coral color is. It is bright! I think this compliments the soft pastel color quite nicely and keeps it in line with Cleo's youthful, spunky image. The bra is a three-part cup made of a thin mesh with embroidered polka dots. The design of Marcie is quite graphic and unapologetically girly and cute, with scalloped embroidery and bow-shapes that are laser cut to frame the cups perfectly and lie flat against the skin. The embroidery on top has a sort of iridescent shine to it which is quite lovely. There are tiny loops of coral embellishment around the bottom of the band. Plus, the hardware is also coral-colored, giving the whole bra a beautifully cohesive look.

While most of these images are taken in slightly low-light, and are a bit darker, this image is pretty accurate color-wise

Fit:
I feel as though I know Marcie well despite never having owned the set, due to the fact that it is so popular and heavily referenced in communities like A Bra That Fits. Marcie works quite well for my shape, as I have an even distribution of breast tissue on top and bottom. Without enough upper fullness the lace on top may wrinkle and gape, but my tall roots allow the cup to fit snugly. It creates a super lifted, projected, and round shape that is a bit magical―I've never tried a brand that quite does that like Cleo―and Marcie, for the most part, fits like a glove.

One thing you may notice is that my size has been 34GG recently, more often than not. Yet for Marcie I decided to go with 34G. I have found that when Cleo bras cross the G/GG "divide" they change in such a way that does not work as well for me. They tend to have thicker straps and band, fuller coverage with a higher apex, among other things. My hypothesis is that this leads to the bras suddenly being a bit to high in the cup and apex for me, and subsequently become more shallow or more vertical somehow, whereas in 34G Marcie has enough room open on top to allow my breasts to project forward. I have noticed this issue in multiple bras, so I just make a mental note to try both sizes. The band is quite snug as Cleo tends to be, and the wires are fairly narrow yet not too bad for my average-width roots.

Comfort:
In general I think part of what makes the lift and shape of Cleo bras like Marcie so satisfying is the super strong and rigid wires they use. That said, it does sometimes lead to painful poking or pressure because they are so hardcore. I do find the gore a little troublesome and pinching sometimes. If it does not resolve itself after a few wears I will bend the wires out a bit. Marcie isn't the best 'lounging' bra for me, because if I slouch the wires tend to dig into my stomach. Yet out-and-about I find it very comfortable and supportive, since it fits so securely (like a boob-hug!).

Briefs:

This is quite notable--I wear a size large in every Cleo and Panache brief I have ever tried on. Marcie, in my experience, runs a size too small. So I got these briefs in extra large, and they fit quite well. How darling are the ruffles?! The awesome design decisions for the bra are echoed in the briefs, and they looks fabulous as a set.

I have such a soft spot for girly lingerie and Marcie really takes it over the top. While Marcie has many color ways at this point, I think Cleo really hit it out of the park with the bluebell/neon-coral combination. Bluebell is already available on Amazon if you'd like to give it a shot!

Thanks for reading!

Quest for a Plunge: Panache Aria Plunge 34GG

Aria is part of Panache Black--Panache's more sophisticated, mature label. It first came out in Autumn/Winter 2015 and has since been discontinued. I found it on amazon and decided to give it a shot.

28-38 D-H

It is a fully molded cup with tan panels that look like they could be sheer but are part of the bra. While I was excited about the design of Aria, it's actually almost a bit too minimal for me. Plus, if you've been reading a while you'll be shocked to find that this molded cup didn't work for me in the fit—most do not.

Looks:
I'm in love with the interesting criss-crossing geometric lace design on Aria. It makes me really desperately want a similar geometric design on an unlined bra, where the illusion of skin could be genuine. As I said, it's almost too minimal despite the visual interest. I would have loved a little glint of metallic hardware, like a charm at the gore. Also where the straps meet the cups feels a bit unfinished, a missed opportunity to make the design seem more luxe. (It does have some nice gold loops connecting the straps at the back). Given that this is part of Panache Black, I kinda hoped it would be a bit more fancy with more details given Panache Black also tends to run a bit more expensively.

You can sort of see the gaping issues on the right breast.

Fit:
As you may suspect, given my history with molded bras, Aria is far too shallow for me. The cups seem true-to-size but the bottom of the cups fold as they can't support my breasts. The cups also gape badly with movement, which is to be expected with a molded bra, but it is very apparent here. One thing I appreciated is the low gore, at 1 inch. Unfortunately the bra is actively fighting against the shape of my breasts which doesn't make it the comfiest option either.

Comfort:
My main complaint about Aria is that the shallowness of the cups make the wires dig in painfully. However the fabric is incredibly soft. So I suspect if you have less projected breasts and need a plunge with a very soft foam construction that Aria may work much better for you.

With Aria, I've basically closed the door on UK molded bras. Of course, never say never, and I'll probably try some on again. But the inevitable lack of projection means that no matter how beautiful the bra is, it will likely not work for me. I guess I'll stick to my favorite UK unlined bras as they are truly the bedrock of my lingerie collection!

Still huntin' for that plunge...

Quest for A Plunge: Panache Idina Plunge 34GG + Figleaves Seduce Satin Tie Bikini

On my continuing search for a great plunge bra, I tried out another Panache offering: Idina Plunge. Stretchier than Fontaine with more lift than Tango II, I genuinely thought that this was The One. Unfortunately this is a case of a bra working perfectly when I tried it on but "in action" it is not quite as perfect as it seemed. That said, this is the only plunge I've tried that I've actually kept and not returned, so it does have quite a bit going for it even if it is not ideal.

30-38 D-H

Looks:
Idina has an appealing minimal design, and while that is not usually my thing there are enough details to keep me interested. The top half of the cup has sheer lace stretch fabric whereas the lower half is lightly lined. The lace design itself is very sophisticated without being too frilly.I love the rose gold hardware, such as the loops that connect the cups to the straps which elevate the design and keep it from being too plain. I would have loved a little detail at the gore, such as a rose gold charm, though I think a bow would be too youthful for such a sleek-looking design. One unique aspect of Idina that I like is that there are only two hooks in the back, whereas full-bust bra bands tend to be thicker with four+ hooks to support larger breasts.

Fit:
When I first tried on Idina I was ready to gush about it--in fact, all my notes on fit are glowing. The cup volume and band size felt true-to-size. The wires are average width and has some great lift with a high apex despite it being an unlined plunge. It has fully adjustable straps which are vital for some people. Have you ever tried on a bra that you felt changed the game, yet when you wear out and about it completely flops? I'm sad to report that Idina rides down out of my inframammary fold very easily throughout the day. This indicates that it is too shallow of a bra, at least at the bottom of the cup. It is quite possible that I would do better in a larger cup size (and perhaps a snugger band) in Idina. I do think it may be a case of needing more projection in general, an issue that comes up often for me. Another complaint is that the gore is a bit high for my needs (~3 inches). Like I mentioned at the start, I did decide to keep Idina since it does deliver as a basic, if imperfect, plunge. But I do not consider my "quest for a plunge" solved just yet.

Your regular reminder to pay no mind to the ass-bruises ;)

My fit considerations after finding Idina lacking is to consider sizing up in the cup and perhaps even sizing down in the band, since that may be contributing to the slippage I'm experiencing. (Also given I'm kind of in-between 34 and 32 bands I might do well in a 32).

Dress shot! Gore is a OK but the bra does poke out a bit without pinning, sadly

Comfort:
The stretch fabric on Idina is lovely, and extremely comfortable. I've talked before about how I prefer when a bra 'disappears' when I put it on, and that was exactly my experience. The lace is soft and not at scratchy.


Figleaves Boudoir Seduce Satin Side Tie Bikini - Large

I really love the design of these black lacey briefs, and I was looking forward to finding more black underwear I could mix-and-match since they go with almost anything. The Seduce Satin Tie Bikini is super cute and the satin ties are actual ties and not solely cosmetic.

My main reaction though was "wow, this is super stretchy!" This sounds like a good thing, especially given I have an ample bottom, but I could nearly pull the waist of the briefs up my entire torso. It ended up feeling a bit loose and uncomfortable with all that stretch even though it looks quite nice. I think I could have gotten away with a smaller size in this design (whereas I usually wear large) if the coverage didn't change drastically. This is great news for people who have hips and bottoms that don't usually fit in straight sizes, as I think it could fit several sizes larger. It was not for me, however, and I did end up returning it.

Thanks for reading!

Quest for a Plunge: Panache Tango II Plunge Tea Rose 32H

Panache Tango II plunge is "the perfect accompaniment to the best selling Tango Balconnet bra", according to Panache's website. I have tried the regular Tango balconnet but it has never become a staple in my bra-drobe mostly due to personal taste. But when I started looking into plunges I decided to give Tango II plunge a shot.

28-40 D-K, 42 D-J, 44 DD-FF

Looks:
Tango is kind of a workhorse bra, in my experience. The Tango II plunge is a three-part cup with a bow at the gore and few other adornments.  It's function-first, and while the design is certainly not unappealing, it has alway struck me as a bit plain. Now this is coming from someone who loves elaborate lace and highly impractical bits and bobs all over her lingerie. However, I am particularly charmed by the 'tea rose' color which is soft and feminine. Some colors I think just work better for Tango's design with the (apparently Austrian) embroidery.

Detail shot!

I will say that this bra is the most plunging that I've tried, with a gore height of two inches. Unfortunately the shape is a bit too pointy and doesn't quite provide the lift that I desire.

Fit:
Tango seems to run about one size larger in the band, so I did size down. The cups are true to size with wide wires. As you can probably see there is some wrinkling at the bottom of the cup which makes me think that it may lack some immediate projection. Even though I desire a super-low gore like this one I do think it compromises a lot of the lift. I am beginning to wonder if I can find what I'm looking for in a unlined bra (despite my rocky history with molded bras...).

Comfort:
Tango II Plunge is fairly comfy. The sides come up a bit high and do rub my armpits a bit. The bottom of the gore cuts into my stomach as well.

I just realized I forgot to get dress photos of this one! Oh well. Tango II Plunge isn't the worst fit but I'm looking for a bra that lifts a bit more effectively and isn't quite as natural/pointy of a shape. My interest in Tango was definitely ignited again with the new balconnet colorway "Grey Mix" which is like...a perfect color-combo in my opinion. Unfortunately if you're eyeing the plunge it's only available in beige, black, and white (lame!) though admittedly that is very...practical.

The search continues!

Review: Panache Clara 32HH Navy/Aqua

I think I tried Clara on for the first time about a year ago, when I was first looking at finding a bra that fit. Unfortunately the bra I bought was used and was a bit worn out, thus I put the bra aside and forgot about it for a while. It has a stunning array of colorways though, and since I understand my size quite a bit better than when I first tried it I was lured in by the Autumn/Winter '15 navy blue/aqua combo.

30-38 D-J

Looks:
Clara is a beautiful bra, no question. The various overlapping panels of lace and shimmering aqua fabric along with the scalloped edges are sophisticated and look quite luxe. I am particulalry fond of how the curves of the bra are echoed halfway up the straps. For bras that typically have slightly thicker straps, I don't think full-bust brands take advantage of the space to do interesting designs as much as they could.

I'm not familiar with many aspects of textiles, so I will do my best to describe the quality of the fabric despite my ignorance. It looks a bit fancier than it actually is—the shimmering parts are thinly woven into the lacey fabric and are a bit thin and not terribly soft or luxurious. That said, the price point of Clara is quite reasonable ($40-$70 depending where you buy and how old the design is), so I'm happy to sacrifice the texture for something that appears more expensive, frankly. The overall look of the bra is dramatic, and comes in so many beautiful colors—the new "Duck Egg Blue" color seems right out of a Marie Antoinette film. It does crush me a bit to say that the fit wasn't quite right for me.

Fit:
I typically wear a 34GG these days but bought Clara in 32HH after trying my usual cup volume and finding it too small. I think Clara must run a bit small in the cups since this volume fit, though the band seems true-to-size as I'm wearing an extender. The wires are of average width, and has a nice high apex with stretchy lace on top which creates a lovely natural uplifted shape. Because I have quite a bit of 'immediate projection' (projection right at the bottom/base of the breast), Clara is still lacking even with the size increase. While it's not terribly obvious on, I can always tell a bra isn't quite working because I can feel the pressure of the wires from the weight of my breasts. This may be exacerbated by the fact that is is a full-banded bra, a style that sometimes cuts uncomfortably into my stomach. Clara is also a bit too full-coverage for me. It is advertised as a full-cup bra but I do find that the more I go over the G/GG line that it's harder to find bras that don't come too far up my chest (for my taste). It is just a whole 'lotta bra and I feel very aware of it, whereas I prefer it when a bra 'disappears' when I put it on.

Comfort:
Besides my discomfort with how large the bra feels while I'm wearing it, it also rubs into my armpit a bit—another issue I see coming up more as I increase my cup volume. The fabric is a bit itchy as well. As I mentioned, the wires tend to dig in at the bottom due to the lack of immediate projection and full-band.

Briefs: The briefs are as beautiful as the bra and fit true-to-size. I don't have any complaints...Sorry about the lack of detailed pictures!

In the end, this was not meant to be (sniff). Looking at the pictures, it doesn't look like a terrible fit, does it? I think I tried to convince myself that I liked wearing Clara but it just didn't pass the fit and comfort test for me. I think my dream is a balconette-Clara with more bottom projection (so basically, Panache Jasmine with Clara's design...) Either way I think it's a bra worth trying if you're projected but don't need quite as much immediate projection as I do, simply because it is so beautiful.

Review: Curvy Kate Dreamcatcher Black 34GG

As I mentioned in my Scantilly Pounce review,  I haven't explored much of Curvy Kate's offerings.  It was fate, apparently, that I try on some of their bras in the near future. The reason I received this bra was a shipping mistake when I ordered a different bra on Amazon. Dreamcatcher is a rather cute bra so I wasn't particularly distressed by the mixup!

 28 - 40 D - K, 42 - 44 D - G

I was pleasantly surprised to get a misplaced bra that actually fit quite well (I can hardly manage that when I'm meticulously picking out bras for myself).

Looks:
Dreamcatcher has a sweet, youthful design. The style of the sheer top layer is both sexy and unique compared to traditional lace. On, it has a slightly natural shape but with a high apex and lifts quite nicely. Dreamcatcher also comes in a charming beige color ("biscotti", cute!), and a  wide variety of bright, poppy colors which I think compliment the design if you prefer something less conservative. I did notice what looked like a couple very minor manufacturing defects, such as a couple tiny ragged bits of the sheer fabric sticking out at the seams. Not great, but also something you can easily just pick off like a stray thread.

Fit:
I was particularly surprised by how comfortable and nicely sized this bra is, especially considering my limited experience with Curvy Kate bras. I would say the cups are very much true-to-size with a slightly large band. I noticed the gore is rather narrow, which is fairly inconsequential for someone like me with wide-set breasts, but for closer-set breasts this may be a big selling point. The wires stayed right in my inframammary fold, telling me that there is a nice amount of projection throughout the cup. The top sheer layer does wrinkle a tiny bit which makes me think I'm right on the cusp of having just enough upper fullness to fill it. it is advertised as having an 'elastic edge' on the top of the cup, though that really does only apply to the edge and not the fabric itself. I'm not sure if someone had trouble with it cutting into their tissue that the elastic edge alone would help, but it is a nice detail and may help with size fluctuations.

Comfort:
As I mentioned, this is a comfy bra for me. Only complaints are that the fabric is a bit rough and scratchy, and the height of the cups cause them to rub in my armpits a bit which isn't terribly pleasant.

I think this bra is an excellent option for an 'everyday basics' bra for someone in my size and shape range. Or even not in my range, given the large size range it is available in. I think if you're too full-on-bottom it may gape and wrinkle a bit in the cups but FOT and even shapes are worth a shot. I did decide to send this bra back after all since I already have several basic black bras, but was pleased to get a chance from the bra-gods to try out another Curvy Kate style.